Bob Long Intimidator Warp Hack Page

First word of warning, this link will NOT I repeat NOT work on all Intimidators. Bob changed his signal pulse times at some point down to 8ms because it was faster than 10ms :) So this will work on older Timmies and not some of the newer ones. So with that good hunting.

NOTE : When I say not work on all Intimidators, this is a clevet that there are some other there according to Tom Kaye and Bob Long that don't pluse the solenoid enough to get a good warp signal. No matter HOW you link it, pulling a switch signl from the noid, the switch or teh board will not work correctly. There are other ways to do this link for THOSE guns, I am working on a clean way of doing that link and when it is done, I'll post it up here and in the forums.

Also this will void your warrantee. If you kill yourself, your cat, your beloved Grandmother it's not my fault. Simple enough eh ?

As with most of my hack pages clicking on the small pictures will get you
a much larger version of the same pic.

	Ok here is our victim. Pull off the grip panels becarefull about the connectors for the buttons.
	Take out the PCB ( Printed Circuit Board ) screw, don't loose the little o-ring.
	With the board loose, you need to double check your wire polarity, I have an old wire set from a toasted Solenoid that I use for this, it's very very handy. In this case + is the green wire.
	Remove the board, becarefull with the LCD ribbon cable. Set the board on an antistatic sheet out of the way of your work area. Clean up the knot of wires so that you can work around the solenoid without having stuff in your way.
	Remove the 2 cap screws that hold the solenoid to the grip frame, put them aside with the grip panels in a old box or cup.
	Prop up the 'noid so you can get to the end cap screws. You will need a fine phillips screw driver to remove the cap retention screws.
	Caps off, carefully pull the cap to the end of the wire by the plug.
	Now, I used a small Craftsman mini vise to hold the Timmy while I was soldering on it.
	Here I used some stiff plastic and some rubber bands to hold the 'noid out so I could proceed with the butchery. Here you can see I have the red wire soldered right to the 'noid contact point. With you make this connection, make sure to make it quick, if you loosen up the solder on the stock wires it becomes a lot more fun that it should getting it all back together correctly.
	Did the ground wire here. At this point I start getting a good idea on my final wire length. Remember it is easier to cut a little off than add a little more later :)

Here is 2 pics with one highlighting the cut I made in the wire cap on the 'noid. Mr Dremel strikes again. At the point reassemble the 'noid leaving all the excess wires out. You will have to spend a little time in how you run your wires. I ended up stacking them between the 'noid and the back of the grip. Use a tooth pick to give them a little shove. Now check your length, make your cuts and put some heat shrink over those wires. Solder your 3/32 phono plug on per the basic instructions in the LED/LCD Warp page.

Here is just the cuts I made for the wires. Yes those are 2 different grips, on the Timmies I like running the wires out here, works out well. Again Evil Mr Dremel strikes ! Muhahaha
	Here is my final run, with heat shrink. If you don't have a tank system that mounted to the gun most of the time and your worried about the gauge or nipple ripping at the wire as your screwing it in, just tape the excess wire to the back of the Warp.
All Done and screaming like a banshee !