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Ok here we start
off with our victim. Take the battery out, grips off and all that other unneeded then then
split your gun halves. |
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Here you see the
connectors for the solenoids. Go ahead and unplug them and see that parts to the side. You
will be working on the 'noids first. |
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Ok these
are rather large pictures of the solenoids. This is important to know which is your 4000
and 3000, as you want the 4000 'noid, because that is the one that actually fires the
ball, so you want that one to be sending the signal to the warp to spin. This is the 3000 I hope you understand where we get that number from. |
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Here is the 4000,
this is what we will be working our magic on. |
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Here is a top view,
pointing out which noid is which |
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| Here you are cutting
back of the glue stick they use for insulation. They don't use the solenoid caps like most
other do to cover the ends and wires. That works for you here. |
Just
cut down to the wires, try not to cut the wires them selves as well that will make you a
bit of extra work. |
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Ok here you see the
wire I am using. I start out with about 20-22" of wire. Put the end on it then used
about 7" of heat shrink on the plug end. Then I did a few trial fits and cut the wire
down to about 19" or so. Keep it a tad long as its easier to trim than to add wire.
If you need a little how to on the wires take a look around the site I have covered it
else where. |
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After you finish soldering the wires,
don't forget to use a little hot glue to re insulate the joins. No need to use as much as
Smart Parts did. |
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I cleaned off the contacts, cut
the glue down, and got to the factory wire solder joints. |
Now before you get ahead of
yourself make sure your wires are getting the correct polarity. You may have to hook
everything back up to test but you will ALWAYS want to check because you never know. Noids
are not voltage sensitive. |
So far I have yet to find Smart
Parts not following correct wiring protocols
( Red + Black - )
But that could change at any time for any reason. SO TEST IT ! |
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Just drilled a hole large
enough for the plug to pass through. Just make it a bit cleaner, and less change to
munging up wires. |
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Here we need to make a small
channel for the link wire to pass out of the grip frame. I used my soldering iron to melt
what I wanted down then cleaned it up a little with a Xato knife. |
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The Threaded
version of the shocker have a high rise that you can cut down and use to make the package
shorter. Quick work for the Dremel. Take it easy and make a nice even cut. Sand down the
top a tad to even it out as needed. Also make sure that there are no burr on the inside
edge.
I used a small strap wrench to get the feed tube snug
in the body.
Smart Parts uses a very thin tube, and it needed some
spacer tape added so that the power feed adapter would be able to get a good clamp |
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