Revy Emag battery Hack

These will be your tools. You need to know how to use them well. Practice on junk stuff first to get a feel for it. I DON'T suggest learning how to solder with a Butane Pen Soldering iron like I have here. Get a good Soldering Iron and life will be much easier. My suggestion if you think you will be doing more than just a bit here and there is a Weller WES-50. I got mine for about $120 and its an awsome soldering station. For more on soldering look at the Soldering How To
To start off, pulling power from the Emag Battery you need to tap into it :) Well I use a standard eye or round crimp connector to pull the + from the battery. As you can see the 2 connectors in this picture. I ended up taking the red jacket off and using some heat shrink to cover the crimp join and to help insulate the eye it self. Make sure you have extra long wire here as you can always trim it up later at the bottom.
Here I have buttoned the 2 eye connectors back down, Becarefull as you get both wires into the wire channel. You need to make sure you don't loose the Emags plastic isolators or you will ground the power to the frame. These are 2 little plastic parts that fit over the power screw and under the power wire running to the PCB. Run the wire down the grove and make sure its all down in there.
Here is how I ran my wires. The red wire actually runs with the others, it just slipped up when I took the picture. Also you can see the ground wire being held against the PCB retaining screw. I repeated here what I did on the red + terminal on the top. Again using Heat shrink to help keep grounding to the minimum. Ok look at the little screw thats holding the PCB in place, that is where the ground is coming from. Make a wire with some length and use another of those ring connector, heat shrink the end and you all good. You should see the extra black wire running with the Red out of teh grip frame.
Here is my finished connector with heat shrink cover. Now I can just plug it into the Warp or Revy. Oh The revy doesn't have a plug ?? Well I fixed that too :)

12 Volt Regulator for using the Emag Powered Warp

Ok here is the picture of the reg I have built. As you can see its nothing special. BUT given that I have gotten so much more interest, I thought I would try again to post how this works.

A) Voltage IN Snap This Snap is wired in to the system just as it should be. 18v input from Emag battery.

B) Voltage OUT Snap, this needs to be wired so that its like the Top of a 9v battery, Round post +, Crown -. That's why they are colored differently from Snap A Here we will be crossing wires, the colors are correct for these wires & connections. Center leg of the Reg is Ground

C1 & C2 are 100mF Capacitors they act like a line conditioner for the reg. This solved several current problems I had.

Ok now, take apart your Revy. Pull out the main part with the battery contacts on it. Now carefully take the battery contacts off. They will just pull out. With that done you now need to carefully slide out the PCB from it carrier. Now you should be holding he dual stage PCB in your hand. Now we start to really mess things up.

This is what you are after.

Ok here I have soldered my wires to the pick ups on the board for power. The 2 pads on the right are + the 2 on the left are -. By doing it this way its not counting on batteries to bridge the gap.

Here is my finished board and wires. If you do this right is something weird happens you can still run dual 9v's in the Revy. You just need to be a little clever on how you run your wires out. You COULD start out running the wires through the side of the Revy and hot glue or epoxy the HD 9v Snap to the side and allow the 9v's to have no interference from the wires.

Here you see that white outline on the PCB carrier. I had to cut a groove for the wires to lay in. Make sure you trial fit this as if its too tight and your using too small of a wire it will cut the wires if your not careful.

Now all that's left is to reassemble and re attaching the 9v connectors.

Here is my much butchered VL with my connector glued to the out side of the body. As this is only for my Emag set up I am not worried about the 9v's

OK here I need to modify the battery door on the warp to allow the wires to enter the warp body. This is why you will want some extra wire in your run. I use the Dremel with the Fiber Glass Reinforced cut off wheel to do the work here
This is my finished door. And yes you need both slots.
BAM ! All done BTW this it is a bad idea to run 18v into the warp. I did this because I was going to stuff a regulator into the battery area and use the 18v to power that.