Angel LED/LCD Warp Interlink Kit

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NOTE : Since I wrote this some things I have found out that will make this a little more work.

WDP does not hold to the Red Positive / Black Ground on the LCD's Solenoid, as Solenoids are not polarity sensitive, the monkey that is crimping the connectors on does what ever floats his boat. Older LCD's I have found follow the Red = + Black = Neg but ALWAYS test your connections to insure you don't burn something up.

Next - LED's actually to the best of my knowledge follow the correct Red = + Black = Neg, I have yet to find one that didn't do that but again TEST your CONNECTIONS.

Next : I no longer use these button tap connectors as I had some problems with them actually cutting the solenoid wires if you fiddled with it a lot. If you were a customer of mine, contact me if you are having some problems and I'll be happy to fix the link and your 'noid wires as needed.

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bracket-hole.jpg (8535 bytes)

Started off Making a hole in the bracket so that the plug will pass through it. Once everything is said and done, getting the wires out of the loom is going to be a bit tricky. Make it about 1/8" further to the right than it looks in this pic. I was still a tad under the grip. Also I have no idea what drill to use, I used a dremel to open the hole I made up a tad. I need a new Drill Bit set.

bare-wires1.jpg (10365 bytes)
bare-wire.jpg (6409 bytes)

Here is where I started, I used 2 17" lengths of 22 Gauge stranded wire to make the interlink cable. The Phono plug is a 3/32".
I soldered in my wires then used heat shrink on Both connections to insure a good insulation

Here is the fun part running the wire up to the back plate. You will need to get the grip loose and get some working room. run the wires up, try not to leave too much slack in the grip/body.

You can see in this pic how I was going to try and get my ground, but for some reason the system isn't ground to the frame of the gun. Leave it to the brits to screw up some so simple and making a common ground.

Here you will have made your splices into the +5v and Grounds wires for the solenoid. Make sure you have enough wire to be able to put the connectors out of the way You can get some extra wire if you are careful by pulling on the WDP harness to get a little more to work with. I left about 1" of room from the back of the solenoid for the connector splices.

Here you can see I have all the excess wire rolled on each side of the solenoid. The splices are folded back nicely as to not stress the solenoid wires. At this point I have the grip back and button its all together.

Here, you see me about to test the link :)
Praying that I am not going to release the Magic Blue Smoke™

Here you can see that I use more heat shrink on the wires that will be outside the gun.

Here everything is all attached and WORKING !

No battery in Warp, picture taken after it was tested

ph33r /\/\y /\/\4|) s|<77z

Feel the POWER !

I didn't even plan that when I took the picture. Just another example of my l33t skillz

Several things here. The LCD's grip is a hell of a lot more busy than the LED's and it actually made it a bit harder to install the links I needed because of a lack of extra room. So in the end I put one ( the ground ) in the grip and the other up in the body just above the grip frame ( positive ). I will try to highlight these in the pics with circles or something. In the end it would be better to use a Y plug in the solenoid plug to do this. BUT I suck at making Molex connectors and they are not cheap to have made right now. I can only say this SO many time. If you have an WDP gun, and would like an super easy way to hook a warp up, call WDP or Email them to get on the sick about a new program for running the intelifeed plug to work on EVERY trigger pull. Unlike the LED the LCD doesn't have enough room in the back to hold the splice connectors and extra wire.

Ok here you just have to take the grip frame off so you can get a few things sorted out. Here I have the ground wire roughed in.

Here I have the positive line roughed in, this is about 1/2 to 3/4 too close to the PCB for where I ended up putting the clip.

The Light Blue Circle shows the positive connector spliced and in the body. The fit is tight but you can get it out of your careful and patient. I use a fine set of medical forceps to nudge wires around to get some extra slack.

Here the grip is bolted back in and the wires are all laded out. You have to be careful to keep wires away from your game buzzer/vibration thingie. The blue circle in the larger picture is the location of the positive connector and the white is the ground. Its tight, and I ended up having to make a small extension to my original loom :( I hate having to back track in a project.) But as I said before start with 2 17" runs of wire that should be well more than enough and you can trim as needed. Measure measure measure.

Having done this I would say expect to spend over an Hour doing this right. If you rush it you will not be happy with how its goes together. The LED is a 30 min or so job, mondo easier than the LCD

Dobie is done. w00t !